1. In the photo, you will see the sloping accordion-style support I use to keep the sewer hose off the ground and provide a gradual slope to the drain. Many states have a law or ordinance against sewer hoses laying on the ground, and the gradual slope helps prevent the drain end from popping out of the campground drain if a surge of “stuff” rushes out when opening the drain valve. (I’ve had that happen)
2. That stand should be placed in a “C” or “S” shape to help prevent the wind from blowing it over and unknowingly popping the end of the hose out of the outlet. (I learned that the hard way)
3. Use a good sewer hose, here is the hose I use, and create a “P” trap in the hose just after the RV outlet to create a hydro-lock to not allow sewer gasses and “critters” from coming up into your RV. Many black tank smells are coming from the campground’s sewer system, not your RV holding tank. As long as the RV outlet is higher than the end of the hose connected to the campground drain, it will always flow without a problem. (Trust me, I been to kollege)
4. Just prior to connecting your sewer hose to your RV, take a quick look at the hose end to ensure the black “O” ring is in place. (if unsure, scroll down for a photo) Without this “O” ring, your hose can connect, but will leak, and you don’t want your neighbor knocking on your door telling you your sewer is leaking (yep, that’s happened to me… embarrassing). Here is a link to extra “O” rings to have on hand in case yours becomes missing.
5. At the other end of the hose, the campground drain end, always use a clear elbow. When you are flushing your black tank, you can see through it ensuring your flushing water runs clear so you can tell you have flushed your tank well enough. (watching the “stuff” go down the drain is gross, but you’ll get used to it)
6. At that same campground drain end, most of the white PVC drains have internal threads so your drain hose clear elbow end can thread into their drain to hold it more securely. Give it at least a 180-degree twist to lock your elbow to the campground drain pipe, then give it a tug to ensure it’s locked into place. (Then maybe put a rock on it like I did in the photo for extra safety)
7. When all hooked up, flush a little gray water down the drain to make sure it is all hooked up correctly. (Trust me, even the best of us can do something wrong, and gray water is better to leak out and you’re there to close the valve quickly, than poopy black water)
8. A great suggestion is to have a slide gate valve on the end of the sewer connection of your RV, I suggest this one by Valterra and leave it on, with a cap mentioned below. This will prevent that inevitable little bit of stinky “stuff” coming out of your RV drain just as you remove your cap, and hook up your sewer hose. (that always happened to me until I put one on)
9. And lastly, when leaving the campground, always put the cap on your RV drain outlet. Many states require a cap and may fine you if one is not in place. Here is a link to a replacement cap, and a different style I like with a garden hose connection, to help you not get a fine. (Just ask the Texas Highway Patrol, but don’t ask how I know)

Want to learn more? I can come to your RV and train you on your specific RV use and maintenance, CLICK HERE for more information and cost.

The post RV Sewer Hose Tips first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

1. Flush your black tank.  Most RV’s have a black tank flush which is usually a black hose port labeled as such. When you dump your black tank, then close the valve, hook a dedicated black tank flush hose to the port, and turn it on (please don’t use your potable drinking water hose). You don’t need the in-line water pressure regulator, but doesn’t hurt if you do.  Set a timer for roughly 1 minute per 10 gallons of black tank size (for example, if it’s 40 gallons, then 4 minutes) and let it fill.  Please use a timer, you don’t want to get distracted and over-fill. Then when your set time has elapsed, open the valve and let it flow out until the water is clear.  It is helpful to put about ½ cup of Pine Sol (or similar) cleaner down the toilet prior to filling. This may take a couple of times, and please remember to close the valve when done.
2. Flush your galley and/or tank. Some are labeled gray, but it’s the kitchen sink we want to flush. Using similar directions as above, close the valve and let it fill to at least half full. It’s rare to have a galley or gray tank flush port, so just open your kitchen faucet and let it run for at least 4 minutes. Pour some citrus-based cleaner such as Zep or PineSol citrus. To help break up the F.O.G. (Fats, Oils, Grease). 
3. Lubricate black and gray tank slide gate valve O-ring seals. When your tanks are empty, pour about ½ cup of cheap vegetable oil down the toilet, and down the drains, followed by a cup of water. Then go out and open-close-open-close-open-close your valves to let the oil lubricate the seals.
4. Lubricate toilet flush seal. When doing the above, also pour a little vegetable oil on the toilet flush valve seal to lubricate it and keep the rubber supple.
5. Check tires and tire pressure.  Keeping tires at the proper air pressure, and look for uneven wear is the best thing you can do to help prevent the dreaded tire blowout. You can find the recommended tire pressure on the sidewall.
6. Sync Schwintek slide motors. If your RV has a LCI/Schwintek slide system, the motors need to be re-sync’d every time the slide comes in. If you need more information on how to do this, click HERE.
7. Check batteries. Check the voltage of your batteries (11.6 volts or higher is recommended), and check their water levels if your batteries are the flooded type. Use distilled or RO water. And make sure the battery connections are tight and clean. Click HERE for more on batteries.
8. Clean shower drain. If the shower in your RV gets used daily or several times per week, the drain may flow slower and slower. This is due to soap scum build-up, usually at the drain, or at the HepVo valve. Unclog the drain or keep it flowing well by removing the drain screen or plug and pouring one small box of baking soda down that drain. You might have to help it with a knife or screwdriver.  Then pour a cup of white distilled vinegar down that drain and let it foam up. If the clock is bad, you might have to force it with a plumber’s plunger. Then follow with hot water.
9. Run your generator. If your RV has an onboard generator, and it’s not being used at least once per month,  the manufacturer recommends running the generator for 20 minutes every month. This “exercises” the generator, lubricates the seals and bearings, and burns off contaminants.
10. Replace your blue in-line water filter. Many RVers know the blue in-line water filters only last a few days and have to be shaken or banged to be useful again. They have granulated carbon in them, and water will channel through the granules rendering the filter ineffective. The best, most affordable water filters are the canister type using a replaceable cartridge of 5 microns or less, and with a carbon block in them. Click HERE for the Amazon link to what I suggest.

The post Most Frequent RV Maintenance Items first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

• Tank sensors not accurate?
• Tank odors inside your RV?
• Tanks drain slow or not at all?
• Tanks sag or your RV seems heavy?
• Is your RV over 3 years old?

Your RV holding tanks can hide some “substances” we would rather ignore. But ignoring can “catch up to you” and cause frustrating or costly problems. Most RV holding tanks accumulate one or more of 5 different “substances”:

• STRUVITE is yellowish or brownish-tan crystals, or even a platy mica-like solid that forms from magnesium, ammonia, and phosphate and sticks to the walls and floor of your holding tanks. If left untreated, these rock-like formations heavily restrict flow through pipes, clog valves, and coat sensors causing misreadings. It makes your tank heavy. Tank flush systems do not remove struvite.
• MOLD is black and flaky or chunky and is very stinky. It forms on all tank interior surfaces, but mostly in the gray tank for the kitchen sink, mostly from food particles. It can harden in the tank corners (especially when your RV is in storage) and continue to build up over time. Most gray tanks do not have a flush system to remove this.
• CREEPY CRITTERS are insect larvae (or even larger…I’ve heard horror stories) that take up residence in your RV storage tanks. They mysteriously find their way into your tank, including up from the campground waste drain.
• SLUDGE is a term for a sticky tan substance similar to pancake batter that does not flush out of your RV holding tank. It is thick and sticky and comes from undissolved toilet paper, undissolved tank treatments, or the effects of tank treatment chemicals. It accumulates in the bottom and reduces your tank capacity, and like struvite, is not removed by most tank flush systems.
• SOAP SCUM can build up in the shower or sink gray tank over time. It causes slow draining, reduces your tank capacity, and causes your tank to get very heavy.

I have pictures of each of the above, but you’ll probably thank me for not posting them. However, I do show them in my “RV Tips From A Tech” seminar.

There is a solution! Pressure washing the inside of your tanks and piping with between 2,000 psi and 3,000 psi. It’s safe and effective to remove all of the above and clean them to near factory fresh. 90% of the time, your tank level sensors begin working correctly again too!

I offer high-pressure tank cleaning service using a special professional-grade “jetter” and unique nozzles to give your RV tanks and piping an “enema”! Bringing your holding tanks back to factory clean!

• Chemical-free hydro jet wash inside your tanks & pipes with over 2,050 psi
• Gets most sensors working properly again.
• Removes struvite crystals and plating.
• Removes clogs, waste build-up, and debris.
• Removes unwanted “creepy critters”. 
• It’s safe for your RV.
• I then lubricate your waste-gate valve seals.
• This is a mobile service – I come to your RV.

Your RV must be connected to water and sewer, and have at least 15 amp AC electrical service. It takes over an hour and usually I don’t need to go in your RV, but you’ll want to be there, I’ll give you advice for good tank maintenance, including what holding tank treatment is best.

The post RV Holding Tank Issues? first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

• The dreaded poop pyramid.
  Yes, I said it, and most all of us have had it…the black tank seems full, but doesn’t drain. Most of the time that happens, there is a pile or pyramid of “stuff” in the black tank just below the toilet drain and it just sits there, not going down the sewer hose.
  
  To get rid of that pile, you need to use this flexible spray wand  that goes on the end of a garden hose.  With your foot on the flush pedal, stick this down the drain and turn it on and let the spray break up that pile and flush it down the sewer hose to the RV park sewer drain.
  
  To prevent it from happening again: Start with an empty black tank, flush your favorite RV Black Tank Treatment down the toilet per instruction, along with about 1 or 2 gallons of water (which usually is 2 toilet bowl fills).  Most black tank issues are due to not using enough water.  
  
  Occasionally you should use a digestor, such as this one to help break down sludge and grease buildup.
  
  Since we are on the subject of toilets, about every 4^th black tank dump, pour ¼ to ½ cup of vegetable oil down the toilet followed by 1 cup of water to help maintain and keep supple the gate valve rubber seals. Also, when your RV is sitting for a while, let some vegetable oil cover the black seal you can see in the bottom of the toilet bowl to keep it supple and sealing well.

• The awning catastrophe
  I have seen many people set up their RV, run the awning(s) out, then leave to head to the trail or grocery store, only to come back and find their awning ripped off the sidewall, or wrapped up over their RV.
  
  Awnings are expensive to repair or replace (mainly because it takes 2 RV Technicians), and are out of stock at most RV parts departments.
  
  Please, only deploy your RV awning if you are sitting under it, or need it to shade the windows while you are inside. NEVER leave your RV with the awning out, because you never know when a gust of wind will lift and mangle your awning.  Never leave it out if it’s windy at all, and not if it’s raining hard. 
  
  Some higher-end awnings have wind sensors that automatically retract the awning if needed.  I have worked on those and the owner said they will never trust them again.  Food for thought?

• The burned up water pump
  If you are dry camping, turn off your water pump when you leave the RV, and back on again when you return. I have seen and heard of RV’ers who have come back from a hike to find a burned up water pump because of a leak or dripping faucet and the freshwater tank ran dry. 
  
  Water pumps need water to lubricate and cool them.
  Usually the water pump switch will light up when it’s on, so it is easy to see when it’s on or to make sure it’s turned off (not lit) when you are headed out to enjoy the outdoors.
  

• The flooded RV
  While traveling, always turn off your water pump. I’ve heard of faucet handles jiggling open during the bouncing around of travelling down the road, or a water fitting coming loose…and when the driver stopped, they found a flooded RV with the water pump running.
  
  Similarly, when staying at an RV park and you leave for the day, turn off the water at the hydrant.  A blown fitting can cause flooding in your RV and you don’t know about it until it’s too late.  Also, I have been at RV parks where they perform a water system flush, sending sandy dirty water to your RV and clogging your filter when you’re gone.

All four of these items take just a few seconds to do, and will hopefully keep RVing fun, not frustrating!
Remember to visit my RVing Products page for more information and links to Amazon products I recommend.

Keep checking back to my website for more “Oops, wish I knew that” content!

See you down the road!

The post Wish I Knew Those Too (2) first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.