Here is a detailed “How To” on sanitizing your freshwater system, in proper order:

Water heater

If you have a tank-type water heater, it’s best to bypass it (close the valves on the back of the water heater, or the red valve on a Nautilus System – or consult your RV owner’s manual). The solution below can harm aluminum or lined-steel tanks. If you have a tankless water heater, this method is OK, as most do not have bypass valves.

If you have a tank-type water heater, this is a good time to flush it out using THIS FLUSH WAND.

Determine your freshwater tank size

Tank size in gallons can either be found in your RV’s build sheet (usually a single page listing all items in your RV, including model numbers and serial numbers) or paperwork specific to your RV.  If you cannot find it, you will need to purchase THIS WATER FLOW METER, attach it to your freshwater hose, and fill your tank (start with it empty). 

All freshwater tanks have an overflow. Stop the water when it overflows and note the number of gallons your meter shows.

Mixing the solution

The recipe is ¼ cup basic Clorox Bleach (not scented) per 15 gallons of your freshwater tank size.  So you will have to do a little math. I like to mix it with some water in a clean 5-gallon bucket to dilute it a bit.

Now, you HAVE to use fresh Clorox that is within one year of its manufactured date and has been stored away from heat and direct sunlight. Otherwise, it becomes ineffective at killing the bad stuff. The manufacturer puts the date of manufacture on the bottle, but it takes just a bit of decoding:

Find the long sequence of numbers on the bottle. The first two are the plant code, the next two are the last two digits of the year, and the next three are how many days into that year it was produced. In the photo below, the production date was 2022 and the 234th day of the year. So August 22nd. That means if today is after August 22, 2023, the bleach is no good.

Filling your tank

Get this solution into your freshwater tank. Either use the “Sanitize” selection in your wet bay to pump the solution into your tank, then fill the tank until full.  Or, pour it into your freshwater tank and fill it the rest of the way. You want it to overflow just a bit so you know the solution touched the inside ceiling of your tank, a good place for “baddies” to live.

Remove filters

Remove any filters or filter cartridges in your RV, and replace the canister or housing so the solution flows freely through your system, and doesn’t clog any filter cartridges.

Sanitize water lines

Now, with your RV in dry camping mode, turn your water pump on and open each faucet in your RV until you can smell the chlorine…sort of smells like a swimming pool. Then shut that faucet off, and move to the next one, both cold and hot (If you didn’t bypass your water heater, it may take longer to smell the chlorine).  Do that with each faucet and shower.

Let it sit

Let your RV sit like this overnight, to hopefully kill any bacteria or “baddies” in your tank and lines.

Drain and flush

The next day, drain your freshwater tank completely.  You can open the freshwater tank to drain on the ground. The chlorine concentration is pretty low, but if concerned about pets or plants, then open a faucet or two and fill your gray tank. Remember, most gray tanks have a lower capacity than the freshwater tank, so be careful to not overfill it.

When drained, close the drain and add at least a few gallons, then turn your pump on and open each faucet until it smells clean.

Replace any removed filters or cartridges.

Check for leaks.

Go RVing!

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The post Sanitize Your Freshwater System first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

That is enough to get “baddies” on you and even in you.  So this post is how to stop the baddies from even getting into your RV water pipes and fresh water tank…from an RVer and RV Technician’s point of view.

Here’s “why”, “what’s not very good”, and what “is good” as a MINIMUM because there are a lot of excellent (and more costly) water filtration and purification systems out there that do better…sort of “you get what you pay for”, but this is the best advice for RVers to start with. And it’s what we use.

Why Filtration is Needed 

My thoughts center around sediment and chemicals.

Sediment is what I call floaties in the water.  Dirt or sand, undissolved minerals, cysts, amoebas, parasites, bacteria, viruses, and similar.

Many of these can clog up your RV water system, such as the aerator at the end of your faucets or the small piping in your tankless water heater.  Some can coat shower heads and electric elements in your tank-type water heater, rendering them less than effective.

What scares me the most is the Giardia parasite (because my Wife and I have had it, and the sickness is terrible. And, the other is the Naegleria Fowleri brain-eating amoeba that tragically took the life of an RVer in Texas recently. It has made countless RVers sick, and luckily, they received treatment in time.

I looked up the size of most of those two, and they are just larger that 0.5 micron (1 micron or so).  So choose a sediment filter that is 0.5 micron (half a micron) or smaller to filter those out of your RV.

Chemicals are dissolved in the water, some of which are good for us, but most are bad…some are REALLY bad. Pesticides, herbicides, volatile organic compounds, lead, nitrates, micro-plastics, pharmaceuticals, and even chlorine, to name several, should be removed as best as we can. A block of carbon that water can flow through works well at removing most of those.

What’s Not Very Effective

Some RV filters are not very effective or are effective only for a short time.

Sediment filters that are 1 micron or larger just don’t filter out all of what was mentioned above; they do some, but not all. Many RVs from the factory, if they have a canister filter, install a 5 micron sediment filter. Ineffective at filtering out the “baddies” mentioned above.

Granulated carbon filters are little pieces of carbon that you can hear when you shake the filter.  Those are prone to channeling, which is the water burrowing straight through the carbon pieces, pushing them aside, and eventually not going through them at all.

You know those blue, in-line water filters that are available at any RV section at hardware/big box stores or even RV Dealers? I like to call them “weekenders” because they are what I just described; they work okay, but not as long as you assume, and the water pushes aside the carbon, rendering the filter basically useless…giving you a false sense of effectiveness.

What’s Better for RVers

The very minimum for RVers is to use a 0.5 micron sediment filter, and a solid carbon block filter. Either a 2-stage filter, or a single stage that has both of those in one filter. I suggest the latter.

Also, avoid in-line filters, and use a canister-type filter that forces the water through the sides of the filter and its solid carbon block. Here is a photo of one I installed for an RVer, and how it works:

So here is the canister housing and filter I suggest, or ask me for it if I’m servicing your RV, this is the only water filter system I keep in my truck for customers, and use myself (I have the Pro version).

https://amzn.to/4nKVnck  A good canister filter housing, but toss the filter it comes with in the trash.

https://amzn.to/44SOqhI Is a link to the 0.5 micron sediment and carbon block filter. Oh, and these seem to last around 6 to 10 months. I have not noticed any reduction in water flow either.

Bonus Tip: 

Prior to connecting your potable water hose to the hydrant, open it up for a few seconds to flush out anything that may have settled in the hydrant (or crawled up inside, you know the song “The itsy bitsy spider crawled up the water spout…”)

I hope this helps your RVing experience to be “Fun, not frustrating!”

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The post RV Water Filter Tips first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

Here are some use and maintenance tips about RV Air Conditioners:

1. They have a filter.  While inside your RV, if you look up at the air conditioner return air section, you will see a screen or foam-type filter.  These should be removed, cleaned with mild dish soap and water, shaken, and replaced when dry. Most have tabs or quarter-turn screws to remove them, so take a look and give it a try. If not cleaned, the AC unit won’t produce enough air to keep your RV cool.
   TIP: While you’ve cleaned your filter(s) and are drying, shine a flashlight up inside your AC unit if you can, and look for loose wires or dirty condenser coils. Make sure the “freeze sensor,” which is a white wire with a metal end, is wedged in the coils about ¼ the way up. Many AC units also have a divider between the return air and the cool air; ensure it is present and sealed. If necessary, please contact me or a reputable Mobile RV Technician to address any findings.
   
2. They aren’t as efficient as your home AC. But, they do a good job for what they are…light, affordable, and replaceable. They are designed to change the temperature between the input return air and the output cool air by 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Some do more, but 20 degrees is what they are designed to do, and is why it takes longer to cool your RV. 
   Also, they actually have very little coolant in their lines, and concentrate more on moving warm air out of your RV than blowing cold air in. That’s difficult to explain, but it may help to understand why cooling is slower than your house AC, and why you should use the fan on High speed.
   TIP: If possible, try not to let your RV get so hot that it’s hard for the AC to catch up and cool down to your desired temperature. Start it earlier than you would in a house.
   
3. Set the thermostat to the temperature you want.  Don’t set the thermostat any cooler than you want because that does not make it work faster or cool better…in fact, the opposite!  The AC unit needs to reach a temperature where the compressor (that’s what pumps the coolant through the lines up there) can shut down for a bit, melting any ice buildup.  If your AC was working fine earlier in the day, but later does not blow as much air or as cool as it recently did, you probably have ice built up, preventing it from working efficiently.
   TIP: Set your temperature at, say, 76 degrees, and leave it there. Set your fan speed on High to help melt any ice buildup quicker.
   
4. Water draining is good. While your RV AC unit(s) are running, there should be some water dripping from the roof, hopefully from the corner rain gutter spouts. This means your compressor is turning on and off, and the fan is melting any ice build-up.  If water is coming into your RV while the AC is running, something is not sealed correctly, or the drain holes are plugged, you should probably call me or a reputable Mobile RV Technician to diagnose and remedy the situation.
   TIP: During your routine roof maintenance, ensure the rain gutters and corner spouts are clean of any debris.
   
5. Close your dump valves.  If your AC system has round or rectangular duct vents in the ceiling, it may also have one or two dump slider vents right at the AC unit near the return air filters. (Refer to the photo below) Those dump sliders are designed to be opened when you first turn on the AC (and let cool air blow down the back of your neck), but close them during regular operation (or just leave them closed).  This forces the air through the roof ductwork (sometimes called “racetrack ducting”) to the duct vents, which should be open and pointed toward the outside walls of the RV. That brings the warm air risen near the ceiling to the return air where the filters are. This is the best way to maintain the same temperature in all areas of the RV, and is most efficient.
   
   If your RV doesn’t have duct vents, use the AC vents to point the cool air away from the return air filter.
   TIP: Point the ceiling vents toward the exterior walls of the RV to do the best job of evenly cooling the RV. Most can open and even rotate, directing the cool air where it should go.
   BONUS TIP: If your RV has more than one AC unit, like our 5^th wheel, we don’t use the unit right above our bed while sleeping due to the noise, but leave on another AC unit which puts cool air into the “racetrack ducting”, which we can feel in our bedroom, and we sometimes close the furthest away ceiling ducts.
   

6. Perform annual AC maintenance. The exterior portion of your AC unit on the roof of your RV (or storage area in some motor homes) should have the cover removed, inspected for damage or bug nests, and have the coils and drain holes cleaned. This should be done annually. Many evaporator or condenser coils get gunked up with bugs or tree pollen or tree cotton or dust, which needs to be cleaned out so air flows as designed.
   Inside the RV, remove the filter(s) and inspect up inside the return air side for dangling wires that may have come off, look at the fins for cleanliness up there, look for any loose aluminum tape or roofing material hampering airflow, and ensure the baffle is in place with no gaps around any part of it. This baffle sits vertically on most units and blocks the incoming return air from the outgoing cold air. If there are gaps, the cool air will just go back up the return air and not into your RV. Seal this with aluminum duct tape, or contact an RV technician.
   TIP: Most Mobile RV Technicians have been trained to perform this annual cleaning and maintenance safely and check the baffle is sealed correctly. They have the proper tools and cleaning solutions, and are worth every penny. They can also remove the interior cover and filters to inspect and correct any ducting problems (and many RVs have ducting problems from the factory, or occur while bouncing down the road) if you like.
   
7. RV AC units are replaceable. In the past 20 years or more, RV AC units have been manufactured as sealed so the coolant cannot be recharged.  Occasionally, you may find someone who can tap into the piping and charge the system with new coolant, but I have never seen that last very long. And it’s expensive.  They probably tend to leak due to the vibrations an RV goes through while traveling down the road.
   
   However, most RV AC units do have capacitors that can fail, so if your RV AC unit is not functioning as it should, contact me or a reputable Mobile RV Technician to diagnose, and hopefully, it just needs a new capacitor.
   TIP: If your AC unit has been diagnosed as having lost its coolant, it is best to replace the whole unit; they are easy to do, and most replacement units are “plug-and-play,” making the process affordable.
   
8. Exercise your AC. Air Conditioners need to be exercised to keep the compressor properly lubricated and reduce the chance of failure or seizing up.
   TIP: While plugged into shore power, run each AC for about 15 minutes once per month to exercise the AC unit, making sure the compressor turns on and cool air blows out.

Following these tips may help your AC run better, more efficiently, and keep your RVing experience “Fun, not frustrating!”

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The post RV Air Conditioner Tips first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

A surprising number of RV problems start on the roof when membranes or roof seals have been improperly installed, damaged, or not regularly maintained.  Roof membranes are a thin layer of rubber material over plywood, and are susceptible to damage or deterioration from improper installation, sunlight UV rays, bird droppings, tree sap, or damage from tree branches. I have even seen small holes in the membrane caused by bird beaks eating bugs or seeds off of the roof, I found those by being on my hands and knees on the roof.

A special RV sealant (not caulking, and not silicone) is used around the edges where the membrane meets the front or rear cap and side walls. Roof penetrations such as vents and skylights also have this lap sealant. It needs to remain pliable as the RV flexes during travel and temperature changes. Due to that movement, sealants are designed to be both sticky and flexible.  The component of the lap sealant allowing it to be flexible is solvent, which can evaporate over time leaving voids, cracks, holes, or bubbles.  Those gaps can occur within a few months and water can then seep through the roof membrane and cause severe damage to the RV, often unnoticed until many months later.

During your annual maintenance, those gaps need to be cleaned, and filled or covered with the same sealant product approved by the manufacturer (none of which is sold at Home Depot). However, the previous RV owner (even new RVs) may not have had those seals maintained.  NRVIA Inspectors are trained to look for those gaps and potential water damage or ensure the proper sealant was used if the roof was maintained regularly. Some RV owners use the wrong sealant, which we can easily notice.

Another important reason for roof inspections is all RV roofs need to be washed at least annually, to remove dirt, droppings, and even mold that could cause premature deterioration of the membrane.  Some RV roof material manufacturers require annual roof washing, and not doing so may void your warranty.  The NRVIA trains its Inspectors to look for evidence of a roof that has not been regularly or unsuitably washed.

Damage to an RV as the result of an improperly maintained roof is rarely seen by buyers or sellers, nor by a Dealer’s PDI. Surprisingly, some inspections even exclude getting on the roof!  The resultant damages (or potential damages) can include delamination, rotting walls or framing, and even mold, and can cost thousands of dollars and possibly render the RV unrepairable. Drastically lowering the resale value. 

Avoid this disheartening news by having your next RV inspected by me at BJC RV Inspections and Repair Service or an NRVIA Certified Inspector near the location of the RV.

The post Why RV Roofs Need Inspected first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

This is the time to check and maintain SEVERAL items to hopefully prevent problems from showing up later. Here’s how to dewinterize, including Amazon links to items I suggest:

1. Return your water heater bypass valves to the correct position to allow water into the tank or tankless hot water system. Water flows through when valve handles are in-line with the pipe.
2. Flush the water heater tank with a tank rinser wand attached to a garden hose, then, replace the sacrificial anode rod with a new magnesium one (not aluminum) if yours is a Suburban water heater, or plastic plug or cap if yours is an Atwood or Dometic (their aluminum tank doesn’t need an anode rod, the plastic plug is designed as a safety feature, it melts if the temperature gets above boiling)
3. Remove the outside door to your water heater. Lift the handle on the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure proper operation and replace if it sticks or is dripping (make sure your size is correct: 1/2″ or 3/4″). Check to make sure the rubber safety grommet is in place where the propane line and wires come into the heater area. There shouldn’t be any holes or gaps, repair with high-temperature silicone to ensure no exhaust gasses could get through and into your RV.
4. If your water pump has a glass bowl with a debris screen inside, unscrew it and clean the inside of that screen, fill the bowl with water and replace it hand-tightened only. (over-tightening can crack it which will then suck air and cause faucets to spirt water with air).
5. Using a water pressure regulator, connect your potable water hose and turn on the water. Open each faucet (cold and hot) until all air is out of the lines, and your water heater is full of water.
6. With your RV water pump on, or city water supply on, grab a flashlight and look for leaks under your sinks, in the wet bay, and behind the water heater…looking closely at the fittings and hand-tighten them even if they are not leaking.
7. Tighten fitting by hand, or hand-tight plus 1/4 turn with pliers. Don’t over-tighten, they can leak if too tight.
8. Install batteries, check water levels, and/or check connections. Batteries lose 1 volt per month just sitting, therefore they should be on a battery maintainer for the winter, so they should be fully charged. Check connections for corrosion, clean the connection wire ends possibly with emry cloth or a file, and apply di-electric grease to the connections to help prevent corrosion and make good connections.
9. Turn on the battery disconnect switch, to send DC power to the coach.
10. Verify the lights work, water pump works, and other 12 volt DC items.
11. Sanitize your fresh water tank. This is done with a mixture of 1/4 cup bleach per 15 gallons of water (verify your storage tank size) and fill your tank. Turn on your water pump (unhook your hose to the hydrant) and turn on each cold faucet until you can just smell the chlorine. Let it sit overnight. Then drain the tank, fill with fresh water, and run each faucet again to get rid of the chlorine smell.
12. Get on the roof and check the roof membrane or material for holes or cracks. Check the perimeter seals and roof penetration seals. Look for cracks or holes, especially over screw heads. If you find any, clean the area and re-seal with self-leveling lap sealant. Water intrusion points are very damaging to your RV, so prevent them by checking your roof annually.
13. Many RVs have a long plastic screw cover in a track along the roof edge and corner edges. Ensure this is still in place, and no screws are visible. Replace if needed.
14. Check all sidewall edge seals and opening seals around water heater, furnace, windows, etc. If caps or holes are found, clean the area and apply GE Silicone.
15. Check window seals and look for pulling way at the corners, or gaps. Repair or re-seal as needed.
16. Turn on the propane tank(s) and check for leaks with spray of soapy suds. If bubbles are found, or if you smell propane, contact an RV Technician for service.
17. Fire each appliance to ensure working properly (stove-top burners, water heater on LP or gas, furnace, refrigerator if LP or gas is an option. If none of them light and burn well, contact an RV Technician for service.
18. Clean around the furnace. Since RV furnaces do not have an air filter, they can suck up any dirt or dust which can cause them to not operate correctly. Clean around the furnace with a vacuum and also consider having your furnace removed and checked/cleaned/adjusted by a qualified RV Technician. This should be done every 3 years or sooner.
19. Clean and lubricate stabilizer jacks, hitch, and slide mechanisms (where required) with proper spray lube and wipe off any excess.
20. Check tire air pressure per the label on the tire, and don’t forget the spare tire.
21. Look underneath your RV for dangling brake wires or water leaks. If found, repair them or contact an RV Technician.

RV’s should be fun, not frustrating, so keep camping fun by properly maintaining them, or hiring me to do these for you…which is always cheaper than repairs or problems or damage later.

Let me know if I can help you do these, or teach you how!

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The post RV De-Winterizing Must-Do’s first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

1. In the photo, you will see the sloping accordion-style support I use to keep the sewer hose off the ground and provide a gradual slope to the drain. Many states have a law or ordinance against sewer hoses laying on the ground, and the gradual slope helps prevent the drain end from popping out of the campground drain if a surge of “stuff” rushes out when opening the drain valve. (I’ve had that happen)
2. That stand should be placed in a “C” or “S” shape to help prevent the wind from blowing it over and unknowingly popping the end of the hose out of the outlet. (I learned that the hard way)
3. Use a good sewer hose, here is the hose I use, and create a “P” trap in the hose just after the RV outlet to create a hydro-lock to not allow sewer gasses and “critters” from coming up into your RV. Many black tank smells are coming from the campground’s sewer system, not your RV holding tank. As long as the RV outlet is higher than the end of the hose connected to the campground drain, it will always flow without a problem. (Trust me, I been to kollege)
4. Just prior to connecting your sewer hose to your RV, take a quick look at the hose end to ensure the black “O” ring is in place. (if unsure, scroll down for a photo) Without this “O” ring, your hose can connect, but will leak, and you don’t want your neighbor knocking on your door telling you your sewer is leaking (yep, that’s happened to me… embarrassing). Here is a link to extra “O” rings to have on hand in case yours becomes missing.
5. At the other end of the hose, the campground drain end, always use a clear elbow. When you are flushing your black tank, you can see through it ensuring your flushing water runs clear so you can tell you have flushed your tank well enough. (watching the “stuff” go down the drain is gross, but you’ll get used to it)
6. At that same campground drain end, most of the white PVC drains have internal threads so your drain hose clear elbow end can thread into their drain to hold it more securely. Give it at least a 180-degree twist to lock your elbow to the campground drain pipe, then give it a tug to ensure it’s locked into place. (Then maybe put a rock on it like I did in the photo for extra safety)
7. When all hooked up, flush a little gray water down the drain to make sure it is all hooked up correctly. (Trust me, even the best of us can do something wrong, and gray water is better to leak out and you’re there to close the valve quickly, than poopy black water)
8. A great suggestion is to have a slide gate valve on the end of the sewer connection of your RV, I suggest this one by Valterra and leave it on, with a cap mentioned below. This will prevent that inevitable little bit of stinky “stuff” coming out of your RV drain just as you remove your cap, and hook up your sewer hose. (that always happened to me until I put one on)
9. And lastly, when leaving the campground, always put the cap on your RV drain outlet. Many states require a cap and may fine you if one is not in place. Here is a link to a replacement cap, and a different style I like with a garden hose connection, to help you not get a fine. (Just ask the Texas Highway Patrol, but don’t ask how I know)

Want to learn more? I can come to your RV and train you on your specific RV use and maintenance, CLICK HERE for more information and cost.

The post RV Sewer Hose Tips first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

1. Flush your black tank.  Most RV’s have a black tank flush which is usually a black hose port labeled as such. When you dump your black tank, then close the valve, hook a dedicated black tank flush hose to the port, and turn it on (please don’t use your potable drinking water hose). You don’t need the in-line water pressure regulator, but doesn’t hurt if you do.  Set a timer for roughly 1 minute per 10 gallons of black tank size (for example, if it’s 40 gallons, then 4 minutes) and let it fill.  Please use a timer, you don’t want to get distracted and over-fill. Then when your set time has elapsed, open the valve and let it flow out until the water is clear.  It is helpful to put about ½ cup of Pine Sol (or similar) cleaner down the toilet prior to filling. This may take a couple of times, and please remember to close the valve when done.
2. Flush your galley and/or tank. Some are labeled gray, but it’s the kitchen sink we want to flush. Using similar directions as above, close the valve and let it fill to at least half full. It’s rare to have a galley or gray tank flush port, so just open your kitchen faucet and let it run for at least 4 minutes. Pour some citrus-based cleaner such as Zep or PineSol citrus. To help break up the F.O.G. (Fats, Oils, Grease). 
3. Lubricate black and gray tank slide gate valve O-ring seals. When your tanks are empty, pour about ½ cup of cheap vegetable oil down the toilet, and down the drains, followed by a cup of water. Then go out and open-close-open-close-open-close your valves to let the oil lubricate the seals.
4. Lubricate toilet flush seal. When doing the above, also pour a little vegetable oil on the toilet flush valve seal to lubricate it and keep the rubber supple.
5. Check tires and tire pressure.  Keeping tires at the proper air pressure, and look for uneven wear is the best thing you can do to help prevent the dreaded tire blowout. You can find the recommended tire pressure on the sidewall.
6. Sync Schwintek slide motors. If your RV has a LCI/Schwintek slide system, the motors need to be re-sync’d every time the slide comes in. If you need more information on how to do this, click HERE.
7. Check batteries. Check the voltage of your batteries (11.6 volts or higher is recommended), and check their water levels if your batteries are the flooded type. Use distilled or RO water. And make sure the battery connections are tight and clean. Click HERE for more on batteries.
8. Clean shower drain. If the shower in your RV gets used daily or several times per week, the drain may flow slower and slower. This is due to soap scum build-up, usually at the drain, or at the HepVo valve. Unclog the drain or keep it flowing well by removing the drain screen or plug and pouring one small box of baking soda down that drain. You might have to help it with a knife or screwdriver.  Then pour a cup of white distilled vinegar down that drain and let it foam up. If the clock is bad, you might have to force it with a plumber’s plunger. Then follow with hot water.
9. Run your generator. If your RV has an onboard generator, and it’s not being used at least once per month,  the manufacturer recommends running the generator for 20 minutes every month. This “exercises” the generator, lubricates the seals and bearings, and burns off contaminants.
10. Replace your blue in-line water filter. Many RVers know the blue in-line water filters only last a few days and have to be shaken or banged to be useful again. They have granulated carbon in them, and water will channel through the granules rendering the filter ineffective. The best, most affordable water filters are the canister type using a replaceable cartridge of 5 microns or less, and with a carbon block in them. Click HERE for the Amazon link to what I suggest.

The post Most Frequent RV Maintenance Items first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

• Tank sensors not accurate?
• Tank odors inside your RV?
• Tanks drain slow or not at all?
• Tanks sag or your RV seems heavy?
• Is your RV over 3 years old?

Your RV holding tanks can hide some “substances” we would rather ignore. But ignoring can “catch up to you” and cause frustrating or costly problems. Most RV holding tanks accumulate one or more of 5 different “substances”:

• STRUVITE is yellowish or brownish-tan crystals, or even a platy mica-like solid that forms from magnesium, ammonia, and phosphate and sticks to the walls and floor of your holding tanks. If left untreated, these rock-like formations heavily restrict flow through pipes, clog valves, and coat sensors causing misreadings. It makes your tank heavy. Tank flush systems do not remove struvite.
• MOLD is black and flaky or chunky and is very stinky. It forms on all tank interior surfaces, but mostly in the gray tank for the kitchen sink, mostly from food particles. It can harden in the tank corners (especially when your RV is in storage) and continue to build up over time. Most gray tanks do not have a flush system to remove this.
• CREEPY CRITTERS are insect larvae (or even larger…I’ve heard horror stories) that take up residence in your RV storage tanks. They mysteriously find their way into your tank, including up from the campground waste drain.
• SLUDGE is a term for a sticky tan substance similar to pancake batter that does not flush out of your RV holding tank. It is thick and sticky and comes from undissolved toilet paper, undissolved tank treatments, or the effects of tank treatment chemicals. It accumulates in the bottom and reduces your tank capacity, and like struvite, is not removed by most tank flush systems.
• SOAP SCUM can build up in the shower or sink gray tank over time. It causes slow draining, reduces your tank capacity, and causes your tank to get very heavy.

I have pictures of each of the above, but you’ll probably thank me for not posting them. However, I do show them in my “RV Tips From A Tech” seminar.

There is a solution! Pressure washing the inside of your tanks and piping with between 2,000 psi and 3,000 psi. It’s safe and effective to remove all of the above and clean them to near factory fresh. 90% of the time, your tank level sensors begin working correctly again too!

I offer high-pressure tank cleaning service using a special professional-grade “jetter” and unique nozzles to give your RV tanks and piping an “enema”! Bringing your holding tanks back to factory clean!

• Chemical-free hydro jet wash inside your tanks & pipes with over 2,050 psi
• Gets most sensors working properly again.
• Removes struvite crystals and plating.
• Removes clogs, waste build-up, and debris.
• Removes unwanted “creepy critters”. 
• It’s safe for your RV.
• I then lubricate your waste-gate valve seals.
• This is a mobile service – I come to your RV.

Your RV must be connected to water and sewer, and have at least 15 amp AC electrical service. It takes over an hour and usually I don’t need to go in your RV, but you’ll want to be there, I’ll give you advice for good tank maintenance, including what holding tank treatment is best.

The post RV Holding Tank Issues? first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

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When I teach Camper College, we go through a Maintenance Sheet Handout specific to your rig. Several RV Specific Maintenance Products are mentioned on that sheet and in the class, along with how to use them, how often to check, why you should, and the signs you need to use them to help prevent damage or failure. (by the way, contact me to schedule your personal Camper College)

Annual RV maintenance is a must, and is a service I can perform if you need. I can even do this service while you watch, so you can do it yourself the next time! Contact me to schedule your RVs annual maintenance, and receive the handouts.

To help find the products easily, here are Amazon links to each item I mention in the handouts and teach how to use. A more complete list, with descriptions, is on my RV Products Page. Remember, you don’t pay any more by clicking on these, but I receive a little comp from Amazon.

For Roof, Sidewalls, & Slide Seals

Water & Wastewater

Battery & Misc.

The post Maintenance Products Every RVer Needs first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

When repairing an RV, I often hear “Oops, wish I knew that!” when I explain the issue could have been avoided.  At risk of losing business, and keeping with my theme of “RVing should be fun, not frustrating”, here are 4 things you should do (or not do) to avoid calling a costly mobile technician:

• RV refrigerators have to be level. Most RV’s have an absorption style of refrigerator. They can run on either 120 volt AC and propane. They heat a chemical liquid in a tank that turns to gas, which rises to the upper back of your fridge. As that gas cools (and cools your food), it returns to a liquid flowing back to the tank through zig-zag tubing like a roller-coaster set at a slight slope of 7 degrees.  That’s not much of an angle, but if it were steeper, it wouldn’t cool your food.
  If your RV is not level, that liquid will not flow back to the tank and crystalize. That causes a blockage in that tube and your fridge no longer cools. 
  Here’s the “oops” moment…that blockage can not be un-blocked.  You will have to replace your cooling unit or refrigerator, which is very costly.
  
  When your RV fridge is on, keep it within 5 degrees of level. I suggest using a bubble level and if any part of that bubble touches the center, it’s within 5 degrees. 

• Always use a water pressure regulator when hooked up to “city water.” Water leaks in an RV are bad, and when fittings leak where you cannot see them, it’s devastating. Many of them are from fittings blowing out due to high pressure, which could be avoided. 
  RV manufacturers pressure test new RV plumbing systems at about 60 psi of water pressure. Many homes and most RV parks have pressures from 75 psi to over 100 psi.
  The Oops moment comes when you find out your RV has a slow drip or a full spray where you cannot see it until too late! Water damage can be costly or ruin your RV.
  Water pressure regulators are pre-set to around 55 psi, which is less than what your RV is rated to handle. They are inexpensive and you should always connect one on the end of your potable water hose. You can also get a type that you can adjust the pressure, but please remember, 60 psi is the “break and spray” threshold.

• Harming your battery. Most RV’s have one (or more) 12 volt “Marine Deep Cycle” battery. Deep cycle batteries are considered dead at about 50% of charge, and that’s when they should be re-charged back to full. To be more specific, they’re fully charged at 12.7 volts and are fully depleted at 11.6 volts (which is actually 50% of charge).  Yes, you read that right… 11.6 volts on a 12 volt battery is depleted. 
  The “Oops, wish I knew that” comes when the RV owner realizes they ran their battery below that 50% several times until it was totally dead and will no longer hold a full charge. Or, worse yet, the battery starts stinking like rotten eggs when being charged, which is an explosive gas and very dangerous to your health. That stink comes from your RV converter trying to charge a ruined battery with over 14 volts, boiling the acid in the battery.
  Most RV’s have a battery meter or lights to show their available power, when those lights get to half, it’s time to recharge them. 
  Also, a couple of times per year, check the water level of each cell. See the rectangular covers on the batteries in the photo below? if your has those, they can be popped off to check the water levels. As batteries re-charge, the fluids evaporate. Check to make sure water is equal in each cell, covering the lead plates, and to the bottom of the filler tube (you may need a flashlight). Use distilled or purified water.

• Your water pump switch doesn’t need to be on when your RV is hooked to city water. Your water pump is only used to pump water from your fresh water storage tank to your faucets and toilet when “boondocking”.  When you attach potable water hose to your house or RV park’s hydrant, the water pressure from that source causes the flow to your fixtures. You can turn off your water pump then.
  The “Oops, wish I knew that” comes when you have to replace a burned-out water pump.

The post Wish I Knew… first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.