1. In the photo, you will see the sloping accordion-style support I use to keep the sewer hose off the ground and provide a gradual slope to the drain. Many states have a law or ordinance against sewer hoses laying on the ground, and the gradual slope helps prevent the drain end from popping out of the campground drain if a surge of “stuff” rushes out when opening the drain valve. (I’ve had that happen)
2. That stand should be placed in a “C” or “S” shape to help prevent the wind from blowing it over and unknowingly popping the end of the hose out of the outlet. (I learned that the hard way)
3. Use a good sewer hose, here is the hose I use, and create a “P” trap in the hose just after the RV outlet to create a hydro-lock to not allow sewer gasses and “critters” from coming up into your RV. Many black tank smells are coming from the campground’s sewer system, not your RV holding tank. As long as the RV outlet is higher than the end of the hose connected to the campground drain, it will always flow without a problem. (Trust me, I been to kollege)
4. Just prior to connecting your sewer hose to your RV, take a quick look at the hose end to ensure the black “O” ring is in place. (if unsure, scroll down for a photo) Without this “O” ring, your hose can connect, but will leak, and you don’t want your neighbor knocking on your door telling you your sewer is leaking (yep, that’s happened to me… embarrassing). Here is a link to extra “O” rings to have on hand in case yours becomes missing.
5. At the other end of the hose, the campground drain end, always use a clear elbow. When you are flushing your black tank, you can see through it ensuring your flushing water runs clear so you can tell you have flushed your tank well enough. (watching the “stuff” go down the drain is gross, but you’ll get used to it)
6. At that same campground drain end, most of the white PVC drains have internal threads so your drain hose clear elbow end can thread into their drain to hold it more securely. Give it at least a 180-degree twist to lock your elbow to the campground drain pipe, then give it a tug to ensure it’s locked into place. (Then maybe put a rock on it like I did in the photo for extra safety)
7. When all hooked up, flush a little gray water down the drain to make sure it is all hooked up correctly. (Trust me, even the best of us can do something wrong, and gray water is better to leak out and you’re there to close the valve quickly, than poopy black water)
8. A great suggestion is to have a slide gate valve on the end of the sewer connection of your RV, I suggest this one by Valterra and leave it on, with a cap mentioned below. This will prevent that inevitable little bit of stinky “stuff” coming out of your RV drain just as you remove your cap, and hook up your sewer hose. (that always happened to me until I put one on)
9. And lastly, when leaving the campground, always put the cap on your RV drain outlet. Many states require a cap and may fine you if one is not in place. Here is a link to a replacement cap, and a different style I like with a garden hose connection, to help you not get a fine. (Just ask the Texas Highway Patrol, but don’t ask how I know)

Want to learn more? I can come to your RV and train you on your specific RV use and maintenance, CLICK HERE for more information and cost.

The post RV Sewer Hose Tips first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

• Tank sensors not accurate?
• Tank odors inside your RV?
• Tanks drain slow or not at all?
• Tanks sag or your RV seems heavy?
• Is your RV over 3 years old?

Your RV holding tanks can hide some “substances” we would rather ignore. But ignoring can “catch up to you” and cause frustrating or costly problems. Most RV holding tanks accumulate one or more of 5 different “substances”:

• STRUVITE is yellowish or brownish-tan crystals, or even a platy mica-like solid that forms from magnesium, ammonia, and phosphate and sticks to the walls and floor of your holding tanks. If left untreated, these rock-like formations heavily restrict flow through pipes, clog valves, and coat sensors causing misreadings. It makes your tank heavy. Tank flush systems do not remove struvite.
• MOLD is black and flaky or chunky and is very stinky. It forms on all tank interior surfaces, but mostly in the gray tank for the kitchen sink, mostly from food particles. It can harden in the tank corners (especially when your RV is in storage) and continue to build up over time. Most gray tanks do not have a flush system to remove this.
• CREEPY CRITTERS are insect larvae (or even larger…I’ve heard horror stories) that take up residence in your RV storage tanks. They mysteriously find their way into your tank, including up from the campground waste drain.
• SLUDGE is a term for a sticky tan substance similar to pancake batter that does not flush out of your RV holding tank. It is thick and sticky and comes from undissolved toilet paper, undissolved tank treatments, or the effects of tank treatment chemicals. It accumulates in the bottom and reduces your tank capacity, and like struvite, is not removed by most tank flush systems.
• SOAP SCUM can build up in the shower or sink gray tank over time. It causes slow draining, reduces your tank capacity, and causes your tank to get very heavy.

I have pictures of each of the above, but you’ll probably thank me for not posting them. However, I do show them in my “RV Tips From A Tech” seminar.

There is a solution! Pressure washing the inside of your tanks and piping with between 2,000 psi and 3,000 psi. It’s safe and effective to remove all of the above and clean them to near factory fresh. 90% of the time, your tank level sensors begin working correctly again too!

I offer high-pressure tank cleaning service using a special professional-grade “jetter” and unique nozzles to give your RV tanks and piping an “enema”! Bringing your holding tanks back to factory clean!

• Chemical-free hydro jet wash inside your tanks & pipes with over 2,050 psi
• Gets most sensors working properly again.
• Removes struvite crystals and plating.
• Removes clogs, waste build-up, and debris.
• Removes unwanted “creepy critters”. 
• It’s safe for your RV.
• I then lubricate your waste-gate valve seals.
• This is a mobile service – I come to your RV.

Your RV must be connected to water and sewer, and have at least 15 amp AC electrical service. It takes over an hour and usually I don’t need to go in your RV, but you’ll want to be there, I’ll give you advice for good tank maintenance, including what holding tank treatment is best.

The post RV Holding Tank Issues? first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.