Here is a detailed “How To” on sanitizing your freshwater system, in proper order:

Water heater

If you have a tank-type water heater, it’s best to bypass it (close the valves on the back of the water heater, or the red valve on a Nautilus System – or consult your RV owner’s manual). The solution below can harm aluminum or lined-steel tanks. If you have a tankless water heater, this method is OK, as most do not have bypass valves.

If you have a tank-type water heater, this is a good time to flush it out using THIS FLUSH WAND.

Determine your freshwater tank size

Tank size in gallons can either be found in your RV’s build sheet (usually a single page listing all items in your RV, including model numbers and serial numbers) or paperwork specific to your RV.  If you cannot find it, you will need to purchase THIS WATER FLOW METER, attach it to your freshwater hose, and fill your tank (start with it empty). 

All freshwater tanks have an overflow. Stop the water when it overflows and note the number of gallons your meter shows.

Mixing the solution

The recipe is ¼ cup basic Clorox Bleach (not scented) per 15 gallons of your freshwater tank size.  So you will have to do a little math. I like to mix it with some water in a clean 5-gallon bucket to dilute it a bit.

Now, you HAVE to use fresh Clorox that is within one year of its manufactured date and has been stored away from heat and direct sunlight. Otherwise, it becomes ineffective at killing the bad stuff. The manufacturer puts the date of manufacture on the bottle, but it takes just a bit of decoding:

Find the long sequence of numbers on the bottle. The first two are the plant code, the next two are the last two digits of the year, and the next three are how many days into that year it was produced. In the photo below, the production date was 2022 and the 234th day of the year. So August 22nd. That means if today is after August 22, 2023, the bleach is no good.

Filling your tank

Get this solution into your freshwater tank. Either use the “Sanitize” selection in your wet bay to pump the solution into your tank, then fill the tank until full.  Or, pour it into your freshwater tank and fill it the rest of the way. You want it to overflow just a bit so you know the solution touched the inside ceiling of your tank, a good place for “baddies” to live.

Remove filters

Remove any filters or filter cartridges in your RV, and replace the canister or housing so the solution flows freely through your system, and doesn’t clog any filter cartridges.

Sanitize water lines

Now, with your RV in dry camping mode, turn your water pump on and open each faucet in your RV until you can smell the chlorine…sort of smells like a swimming pool. Then shut that faucet off, and move to the next one, both cold and hot (If you didn’t bypass your water heater, it may take longer to smell the chlorine).  Do that with each faucet and shower.

Let it sit

Let your RV sit like this overnight, to hopefully kill any bacteria or “baddies” in your tank and lines.

Drain and flush

The next day, drain your freshwater tank completely.  You can open the freshwater tank to drain on the ground. The chlorine concentration is pretty low, but if concerned about pets or plants, then open a faucet or two and fill your gray tank. Remember, most gray tanks have a lower capacity than the freshwater tank, so be careful to not overfill it.

When drained, close the drain and add at least a few gallons, then turn your pump on and open each faucet until it smells clean.

Replace any removed filters or cartridges.

Check for leaks.

Go RVing!

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The post Sanitize Your Freshwater System first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

A surprising number of RV problems start on the roof when membranes or roof seals have been improperly installed, damaged, or not regularly maintained.  Roof membranes are a thin layer of rubber material over plywood, and are susceptible to damage or deterioration from improper installation, sunlight UV rays, bird droppings, tree sap, or damage from tree branches. I have even seen small holes in the membrane caused by bird beaks eating bugs or seeds off of the roof, I found those by being on my hands and knees on the roof.

A special RV sealant (not caulking, and not silicone) is used around the edges where the membrane meets the front or rear cap and side walls. Roof penetrations such as vents and skylights also have this lap sealant. It needs to remain pliable as the RV flexes during travel and temperature changes. Due to that movement, sealants are designed to be both sticky and flexible.  The component of the lap sealant allowing it to be flexible is solvent, which can evaporate over time leaving voids, cracks, holes, or bubbles.  Those gaps can occur within a few months and water can then seep through the roof membrane and cause severe damage to the RV, often unnoticed until many months later.

During your annual maintenance, those gaps need to be cleaned, and filled or covered with the same sealant product approved by the manufacturer (none of which is sold at Home Depot). However, the previous RV owner (even new RVs) may not have had those seals maintained.  NRVIA Inspectors are trained to look for those gaps and potential water damage or ensure the proper sealant was used if the roof was maintained regularly. Some RV owners use the wrong sealant, which we can easily notice.

Another important reason for roof inspections is all RV roofs need to be washed at least annually, to remove dirt, droppings, and even mold that could cause premature deterioration of the membrane.  Some RV roof material manufacturers require annual roof washing, and not doing so may void your warranty.  The NRVIA trains its Inspectors to look for evidence of a roof that has not been regularly or unsuitably washed.

Damage to an RV as the result of an improperly maintained roof is rarely seen by buyers or sellers, nor by a Dealer’s PDI. Surprisingly, some inspections even exclude getting on the roof!  The resultant damages (or potential damages) can include delamination, rotting walls or framing, and even mold, and can cost thousands of dollars and possibly render the RV unrepairable. Drastically lowering the resale value. 

Avoid this disheartening news by having your next RV inspected by me at BJC RV Inspections and Repair Service or an NRVIA Certified Inspector near the location of the RV.

The post Why RV Roofs Need Inspected first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

As a professional, I’m often asked “Do you winterize with compressed air or the pink stuff?”  I answer “yes”. I use both because I’ve learned just one or the other can miss some places and condensation over the winter can accumulate and freeze, causing leaks in the spring.  The most common items many DIY’ers miss are the toilet flush valve and/or vacuum breaker, the water pump filter bowl, or the black tank flush lines.

I don’t want to miss anything either, and I’ve learned a lot from winterizing hundreds of RVs over 32 years, and know first-hand that winterizing MUST also include preparing the whole RV to make it through the winter.

So I’ve developed a checklist app with over 60 items to do or address so nothing is missed, ensuring RVing will be fun in the spring, not frustrating.

My app also generates a report I send to the RV owner, with photos and descriptions of what was done, giving them peace of mind through the winter. I even list things to keep an eye on next summer or to do when de-winterizing in the spring.

I don’t stop when done with the pink stuff and air.  Winterizing is getting your RV ready to withstand the winter which includes flushing out the water heater’s mineral build-up and bacteria, checking and repairing the roof membrane and seals, window and sidewall seals, and even preparing the generator. I lubricate items such as the plumbing drain valves and cables and slide mechanisms so they will open and work in the spring, and ensure the battery will be ready for spring camping! 

Having your RV winterized by a seasoned RV Technician is worth every penny.  My BJC RV Winterizing Plus includes making sure all of your RV is healthy enough to make it through the winter. And I send you a report verifying what I have done and repaired if needed!

Contact me today to schedule winterizing your RV the correct way, and ensure a peaceful winter and fun camping season ahead!

The post Winterizing An RV Is More Than Pink Stuff first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

This is the time to check and maintain SEVERAL items to hopefully prevent problems from showing up later. Here’s how to dewinterize, including Amazon links to items I suggest:

1. Return your water heater bypass valves to the correct position to allow water into the tank or tankless hot water system. Water flows through when valve handles are in-line with the pipe.
2. Flush the water heater tank with a tank rinser wand attached to a garden hose, then, replace the sacrificial anode rod with a new magnesium one (not aluminum) if yours is a Suburban water heater, or plastic plug or cap if yours is an Atwood or Dometic (their aluminum tank doesn’t need an anode rod, the plastic plug is designed as a safety feature, it melts if the temperature gets above boiling)
3. Remove the outside door to your water heater. Lift the handle on the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure proper operation and replace if it sticks or is dripping (make sure your size is correct: 1/2″ or 3/4″). Check to make sure the rubber safety grommet is in place where the propane line and wires come into the heater area. There shouldn’t be any holes or gaps, repair with high-temperature silicone to ensure no exhaust gasses could get through and into your RV.
4. If your water pump has a glass bowl with a debris screen inside, unscrew it and clean the inside of that screen, fill the bowl with water and replace it hand-tightened only. (over-tightening can crack it which will then suck air and cause faucets to spirt water with air).
5. Using a water pressure regulator, connect your potable water hose and turn on the water. Open each faucet (cold and hot) until all air is out of the lines, and your water heater is full of water.
6. With your RV water pump on, or city water supply on, grab a flashlight and look for leaks under your sinks, in the wet bay, and behind the water heater…looking closely at the fittings and hand-tighten them even if they are not leaking.
7. Tighten fitting by hand, or hand-tight plus 1/4 turn with pliers. Don’t over-tighten, they can leak if too tight.
8. Install batteries, check water levels, and/or check connections. Batteries lose 1 volt per month just sitting, therefore they should be on a battery maintainer for the winter, so they should be fully charged. Check connections for corrosion, clean the connection wire ends possibly with emry cloth or a file, and apply di-electric grease to the connections to help prevent corrosion and make good connections.
9. Turn on the battery disconnect switch, to send DC power to the coach.
10. Verify the lights work, water pump works, and other 12 volt DC items.
11. Sanitize your fresh water tank. This is done with a mixture of 1/4 cup bleach per 15 gallons of water (verify your storage tank size) and fill your tank. Turn on your water pump (unhook your hose to the hydrant) and turn on each cold faucet until you can just smell the chlorine. Let it sit overnight. Then drain the tank, fill with fresh water, and run each faucet again to get rid of the chlorine smell.
12. Get on the roof and check the roof membrane or material for holes or cracks. Check the perimeter seals and roof penetration seals. Look for cracks or holes, especially over screw heads. If you find any, clean the area and re-seal with self-leveling lap sealant. Water intrusion points are very damaging to your RV, so prevent them by checking your roof annually.
13. Many RVs have a long plastic screw cover in a track along the roof edge and corner edges. Ensure this is still in place, and no screws are visible. Replace if needed.
14. Check all sidewall edge seals and opening seals around water heater, furnace, windows, etc. If caps or holes are found, clean the area and apply GE Silicone.
15. Check window seals and look for pulling way at the corners, or gaps. Repair or re-seal as needed.
16. Turn on the propane tank(s) and check for leaks with spray of soapy suds. If bubbles are found, or if you smell propane, contact an RV Technician for service.
17. Fire each appliance to ensure working properly (stove-top burners, water heater on LP or gas, furnace, refrigerator if LP or gas is an option. If none of them light and burn well, contact an RV Technician for service.
18. Clean around the furnace. Since RV furnaces do not have an air filter, they can suck up any dirt or dust which can cause them to not operate correctly. Clean around the furnace with a vacuum and also consider having your furnace removed and checked/cleaned/adjusted by a qualified RV Technician. This should be done every 3 years or sooner.
19. Clean and lubricate stabilizer jacks, hitch, and slide mechanisms (where required) with proper spray lube and wipe off any excess.
20. Check tire air pressure per the label on the tire, and don’t forget the spare tire.
21. Look underneath your RV for dangling brake wires or water leaks. If found, repair them or contact an RV Technician.

RV’s should be fun, not frustrating, so keep camping fun by properly maintaining them, or hiring me to do these for you…which is always cheaper than repairs or problems or damage later.

Let me know if I can help you do these, or teach you how!

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Some of the links above take you to your Amazon account, and as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualified purchases but you don’t pay any more...so thank you for purchasing through these links!

The post RV De-Winterizing Must-Do’s first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.

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When I teach Camper College, we go through a Maintenance Sheet Handout specific to your rig. Several RV Specific Maintenance Products are mentioned on that sheet and in the class, along with how to use them, how often to check, why you should, and the signs you need to use them to help prevent damage or failure. (by the way, contact me to schedule your personal Camper College)

Annual RV maintenance is a must, and is a service I can perform if you need. I can even do this service while you watch, so you can do it yourself the next time! Contact me to schedule your RVs annual maintenance, and receive the handouts.

To help find the products easily, here are Amazon links to each item I mention in the handouts and teach how to use. A more complete list, with descriptions, is on my RV Products Page. Remember, you don’t pay any more by clicking on these, but I receive a little comp from Amazon.

For Roof, Sidewalls, & Slide Seals

Water & Wastewater

Battery & Misc.

The post Maintenance Products Every RVer Needs first appeared on BJC RV Inspections and Repairs.