RV Products
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Here are links to RV items I recommend and use myself, including descriptions and reasons. Scroll or click on the below categories:
WATER, WASTEWATER & SEWER, EXTERIOR, INTERIOR, SAFETY & ELECTRONICS, and TOOLS.
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Water:
Water pressure reducer/regulator is first because it’s REQUIRED in my opinion…I get countless service calls for water leaks from RVers who don’t use one. RV plumbing is factory tested at 60psi, however, most homes are 75psi and RV parks can be over 100psi which can cause leaks in your RV plumbing! I recommend these, in this order (and get the cheaper one as a spare in case you leave one at the previous RV site 🙂 By the way, have gone through 3 adjustable regulators with the dial and no longer recommend them.
Best Reducer (stainless steel)
Always use a potable water hose, not a garden hose. I have used several, but the one below has lasted the longest so to me it’s the best, and the perfect length for most RV parks, other lengths are available too:
I thought this little item was hoaky, until I tried one. If filling your freshwater tank takes time, and you rarely get the tank full because it blows back or “burps” at you falsely telling you it’s full, then get this cheap but helpful little tool. I wish I got it a lot earlier.
Oh, and while boondocking, you may need to go get more water to fill your tank. These jugs are what I use:
I don’t like the blue in-line water filters at RV and hardware stores because they are only for short camping trips (but not long ones since they are prone to “channeling” where the water channels through the middle of the granulated carbon, rendering the filter practically useless).
A better solution is a canister type with a sedimant & carbon block filter, because the water has to flow through the sides and through a porous block of carbon and up the middle to your RV. The first link below is for the canister with attachments I recommend (but the filter that comes with it is less than mediocre), so click on the next link to get the better filter which is .5 micron sediment & carbon block filter that also removes giardia and cryptosporidium. Order a spare or replacement cartridge too, because they seem to last around 6 months or suddenly decrease water flow when full of gunk, it’s good to have a replacement on hand:
Best .5 Micron Carbon Block Filter cartridge
Hard water can cause damaging mineral buildup in your RV so we use a water softener. The standard skinnier size is what I use because it fits in my heated storage area to not freeze. The larger one is even better, it comes with brass fittings (not plastic) removes minerals of 2,000 gallons of water and is perfect if you a washing machine in your RV:
Most RV’s have plastic connections where you thread your potable water hose into the RV which can break or get cross-threaded. Install 90 degree brass fittings and leave them in, and I also suggest quick-connect fittings to make the job easier and safer on the fittings:
This little gadget is really cool, it counts how many gallons you use. I use it to put 3 gallons in our freshwater tank when traveling, and to measure how much water we use while boondocking. I have two, the other one is for counting gallons to flush the black tank:
Worm gear clamps are needed by RVers to fix leaks where the Manufacturer put a PEX clamp on a vinyl hose. Here is what fits, and good to put right behind the existing PEX clamp to fix or prevent those inevitable leaks.
1/2″ to 3/4″ Stainless Steel Worm Gear Clamps
A Water Pump is essential, every RV has one. They don’t last forever, so here is a good one to keep as a spare, or replace yours with:
Good Affordable RV Water Pump LCI (with screen filter)
Hot Water
Now, let’s move to the water heater. Get this flush wand to spray the sediment and calcium out of your water heater once or twice a year through the drain plug or anode rod hole. There are several types, but this one works best for both Suburban and Atwood/Dometic water heaters:
If your water heater has a steel tank it’s a Suburban, the drain plug is also the sacrificial anode rod…which must be checked once a year, and replaced if you can see the wire down the center of the rod. Do not buy aluminum or cheaper anode rods, use only Suburban for many reasons:
Suburban water heaters have a check valve in the back on the hot water outlet. If yours is plastic, replace it with a brass one before it starts to leak. Here is a link, and remember to wrap the threads 4 times with teflon tape:
And, if your water heater is an Atwood (and some Dometic models – please verify), the drain plug is plastic (the tank is aluminum so no need for an anode rod) and it also acts as a safety feature of the tank preventing damage. The plastic can get hard and brittle, so replace it with a new one whenever you drain and flush the tank. This link also includes the wrench because they can be hard to get at:
Atwood Water Heater Drain Plugs and Wrench
If your water heater temperature and pressure relief valve is starting to drip water, it’s time to replace it. Here is a link to the most common, but verify the pipe thread size with what you have.
Wastewater and Sewer:
The majority of RV tank treatments are mostly fragrance and fillers that sit on the bottom of your tank, and don’t flush away with your normal tank flush, see this post. I’ve used several types over the years, but I do high-pressure hydro-jet tank cleaning and see many of those don’t do what you think. I’ve found using nothing works about as good as those, but probiotic treatments work the best. If you want to use the best (and cheapest overall) get the TankTechsRx by Just Science probiotic treatment below:
By the way, you can use the same for Gray tanks to clear out the F.O.G. just not as often as the black tank.
A good sewer hose is a must, and one with a clear elbow is vital (so you know when your tanks are done and flushed clear. Also, a valve in addition to a cap at the drain connector is a must so there’s no leakage when you remove the cap. The last item here sets the proper slope of your drain tube:
RV sewer hoses have an “O” ring seal. Those can come loose and you don’t find it’s missing until your connected hose is leaking sewer water. Gross! So always have a package of those O ring seals to replace yours that got lost, you will thank me later!
Sometimes the sewer cap or even the hose is stuck on so tight you cannot get it off! Or the RV park sewer cap is on tight. These wrenches are good to have!
RV-specific toilet paper is not needed if you use plenty of water in your black tank (I suggest 2 gallons or 2 toilet bowls full right after emptying your tank). We use WalMart’s brand and has been tested by RV’ers to break down at least as fast as RV toilet paper.
If your black tank seems full but doesn’t drain, you probably have the dreaded “poop pyramid”. You may cringe at that, but most all of us have had it happen…and we needed this flexible spray wand to break it up and flush all contents down the sewer drain. Many RV toilets drop straight down, but some make a jog in the pipe first, so that’s why it’s good to get this flexible one. It goes on the end of your black tank rinsing (garden) hose:
Better yet, get this kit for unclogging your RV toilet black tank. It includes the famous (but hard to find) Johnny Chock to keep your toilet flush valve open and undamaged, a 5 ft. unclogging spray wand, and the best (and cheapest to use) RV Tank treatment, Just Science. All at a great price!
Johnny Chock Kit With Just Science And Wand
And finally, every full or part-time RVer needs this to back flush your black AND gray tanks. Most RVs have a black tank flush port, but very few have a GRAY tank flush port. This is what to use for both, it back fills your tank when used correctly (please learn how to use it), and I suggest using a flow meter to ensure you fill the tank to about 80% of capacity prior to opening the attached gate valve (verify your tank capacity prior to using).
Rhino Blaster Pro with Slide Gate Valve
Exterior:
If you read my post Don’t Neglect Your Roof, you know how important it is to check for possible leaks AND use the correct product. I’ve found the best is Dicor for any rubber, fiberglass, or metal roof front/back and penetration seals. Never use silicone up there. Here’s the correct roof sealant (use “self-leveling” for roof top, and “non-sag” for the edge along the rain gutter or trim (it comes in different colors). Use a DRIPLESS caulking gun, it’s not so messy:
Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant
Slide roofs with a membrane or longer gashes might require special tape. It’s good to keep a roll in your RV just in case. It comes in white or tan. Be sure to use a roller to apply it, the link below is to my favorite one:
Silicone can be used on the side walls of the RV to seal out water (not on the roof) here’s what I think is best because it’s most flexible and lasts the longest:
Some trim pieces and other items may need to be glued on. Use a silicone based adhesive that remains pliable to flex when the RV goes down the road. I like this product the best:
The next 3 products are “Must-Have’s” for any RVer. This first one is for your slide bulb and wipe seals. Be sure to spray it on a rag first, then wipe on the seals:
Rubber Seal UV Protectant & Conditioner
Also get “Slide-Out” silicone spray for your slides and jacks, use a rag to wipe off the excess (but don’t spray any lube on your Schwintek slide serpentine tracks, those are just supposed to be kept clean).
Also, get “Window and Track Dry Lube” for your window tracks door and refrigerator latches and storage slam latches so they move freely, then wipe off the excess.
Window and Track Dry Lube and Slide Out Together
Professionals lubricate slide mechanisms (not Schwintek) with BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication. Now available on Amazon below!
If you have attended one of my seminars “RV Tips From A Tech” I mention RV Technicians use only one type of spray lube specifically applied to one location on a Schwintek Slide. If you know where to spray it, here is the link:
The sun’s UV rays wreak havoc on plastic, especially your roof AC shrouds, Skylights, Vent Covers, etc. Keep them protected with this UV Protectant:
303 Aerospace UV Protectant Spray
303 Aerospace UV Protectant Gallon
Bugs that build nests are drawn to the smell of propane and heat, their nests can cause big problems. Keep them out with proper screens designed for the job, DO NOT use screen door material which doesn’t provide proper airflow. Install these easily by putting the install tool through the spring. This link is for a typical set, be sure to verify what your vent sizes are and order what fits:
Typical Flying Insect Vent Screen Set
Washing your RV roof is required at least once per year. Use a little Murphy’s Oil Soap and water with a soft long-handled RV or car washing brush. Side walls are washed with a foam Cannon attached to a pressure washer (I don’t use high pressure on my RV, just the cannon and the soft brush below)
Foaming Cannon I Use On My Pressure Washer
Foaming Cannon Soap Safe For RVs
Your RV awning can get dirty and mildew can stain the underside. Clean it with this per the instructions, sometimes I spray in on top of the awning, then roll it up for a few minutes, extend the RV and wash the underside using the brush above:
This is what I put on my tires to keep the sun’s UV rays from cracking the sidewalls. Looks good too!
Waxing your RV is also a must, this is the best I have found…if it’s good for boats in salt water and sun, it’s got to be great for your RV. It works well on fiberglass and similar RV finishes!
Walbernize is what Airstream owners use, if you own an Airstream, you already know this:
If the RV finish is starting to oxidize, you will need something better than wax. An RV wash and wax company I know uses this product with unbelievable results, notice the kit is based on your RV length:
My locksmith relative uses this in keyed locks and mechanisms, perfect for RV’s too, so your keys go in easy and doors don’t need to be slammed. Use on the moving parts of your refrigerator too!
Either permanently install these solar motion lights around your RV, or use velcro so you can remove them when traveling. They are a great pest and thief deterrent, and helpful coming back to your RV in the dark:
RV tires MUST be chock’d. Avoid the plastic ones (they can crack & crush), get these heavy duty rubber ones, and you will need at least 4 total:
Solid Rubber Heavy Duty Chocks
Tandem axle trailers can be more firm with X Chocks, they greatly reduce movement in the RV and also help prevent camper theft. These are what I use because they don’t need a special tool (which I can lose easily):
These are nice to use for leveling your RV or even changing a tandem tire, they have a non-slick surface and rubber mat so they shouldn’t slide along the ground like plastic ones:
Having a set of these light weight blocks are a must for several uses! Under stabilizer jacks, hydraulic jacks, for leveling camper wheels, etc.:
LightWeight Stackable RV Blocks
This grab bar is nice to add to the inside of most RV screen doors. Be sure to measure your door to ensure correct fit:
If your screen door latch looks like this, has broken (they are plastic), below is a link to a metal latch, which lasts a lot longer! Make sure what you need is either a right hand one, or a left hand…
If your water heater door thumb latch is plastic, it will probably break soon, so best to get one on hand for when it does:
Your Air Conditioner needs to be cleaned once in a while. Use this no-rinse foaming spray to clean the condenser coils or fins, and use the fin comb to straighten bent fins:
Foaming Air Conditioner Coil Spray
Most screws on RVs use a #2 square. Many need to be tightened once in a while. Here is a #2 square screwdriver. You can thank me later 🙂
Most RV’s use 12 volt blade fuses. This inexpensive kit has every fuse your RV uses of this type, and is good to have in your RV:
Propane
Cheap insurance is to spray your propane fittings once in a while to detect leaks. Here is what I use, and when it’s gone, I fill this same bottle with kids bubbles solution:
Propane level is hard to determine, and many motor home cylinders don’t have level indicators. These are what I use, and monitor the propane level, even alert you if low. They attach to the bottom of the tank or cylinder, so get one per tank. If your tanks sit on a metal surface, you have to put a rubber Halo on the bottom to raise it above the metal so the signal can get out.
Interior:
Flying insects get into your RV and are frustrating, I found this little plug-in attracts them and they stick to the back side. Works for Flies, Fruit Flies, Moths, Gnats, and Other Flying Insects:
Safer Home SH502-2SR 2 Indoor Plug-in Insect Trap
Storing and organizing our cooking spices was a problem until we found these!!! Bottles with labels, and the racks to hold them.
Cooking Spice Bottles With Labels
We have an unexplainable desire to keep and re-use plastic grocery bags (especially Target ones…those are the best) this thing keeps them in one place and out of sight. We mounted ours to the inside of one of our cabinet doors:
Our RV LED lights are too bright for book reading, this chargeable clip light uses no RV power and has multiple settings…love it!:
LED Rechargeable Reading Light
We put this magnetic strip in our bathroom cabinet to keep tweezers, nail clippers, etc. easy to find. Love it!
Strip Magnet for Kitchen Knives, or Bathroom Items.
I made a wooden shelf that folds down out of the way when not needed, these brackets made it possible:
Heavy Duty Collapsible Shelf Brackets
Sometimes our propane stovetop burners are too hot on low to just simmer or keep something warm. This made that possible:
RV shower heads use very little water, and not much pressure. These use even less water (great for boondocking!) and raise the pressure to an amazing level! This is a must-get!
Oxygenics Shower Head Brushed Nickel Color For RV
Oxygenics Shower Head White for RV
Oxygenics Power Massage Hand Held Brushed Nickel for RV
Oxygenics Fixed Power Massage Brushed Nickel for RV
If you RV during the winter months, heat is precious…and can escape through your 14″ hand-crank vent. Use this first one for your 14″ square vents, and the second one for your shower 14″x22″ skylights to keep your heat:
Vent Insulation for Square Vent Opening
Vent Insulation Rectangular Skylight Opening
Cut this to fit in some of your windows to help keep the heat in your RV. This is one width and length, there are other options too:
RV Bubble Foil Insulation Roll
Need a light magazine rack?
Here are some safe cleaning products to use on your RV. (NEVER use Clorox or chlorine bleach, it deteriorates the plastic pipe sealant and rubber fixtures.
Baking Soda and Cleaning Gloves
Safety & Electronics:
SAFETY is a priority for me, keep these items up to date and test to make sure they are working:
Carbon Monoxide Detector Alarm for RV Use (mounts on the ceiling or wall about 60″ above floor)
Propane LP Detector Alarm (mounts 10″ above the floor)
Fire Extinguisher to keep near your bed
Fire Blanket (for stove top fires, and more, even people)
Compact Fire Extinguisher (3 Pack) for RV and Tow Vehicle
Collapsible Safety Cones (4 Pack)
Battery connections can corrode and reduce the amps to your coach. Clean them and apply Dielectric Grease to reduce corrosion, especially if camping near salty sea air:
Propane cylinders seem to run out at 2:30 am. Prevent having to wake up and switch tanks by knowing the actual tank level on your phone, and have it send an alarm when nearly empty! These sensors magnetically attach to the bottom of your cylinders (I’ve never had one fall off) and give a percentage reading to an app on your phone. Get the black halo ring for the bottom of the tank if yours isn’t open underneath. TIP: The above Dielectric Grease helps them read more accurately.
It is IMPERATIVE to connect shore power to a Surge Protector/Power Tester and then to your RV. These are what I recommend (get what matches your RV power either 30 amp or 50 amp) I also suggest wrapping a bike lock around it and the power pedestal to deter theft:
Best 30 Amp Portable Surge Protector
Better 50 Amp Portable Surge Protector
Best 50 Amp Portable Surge Protector
Best Permanently Mounted Surge Protector 50 Amp
Remote for the above Permanently Mounted 50 Amp Surge Protector
It’s always good to know how many volts your battery puts out, this is easy to install, and also gives you another USB charging port:
12 Volt Monitor with USB Charging Ports
Want to know the temperature and humidity inside and outside your RV? This is what I use, and be sure to mount the white exterior sensor where it’s most shady. It sheds the rain, but I remove it when spray washing the RV, water can get up inside it from underneath and ruin it.
Indoor & Outdoor Therma Pro Temperature
Your RV battery needs frequent TLC which includes a battery maintainer when you’re not using your RV. The first one below is an inexpensive option (one per battery).
The second one below is also a battery charger with more amperage, and a maintainer too.
Battery Maintainer While In Storage 1 Amp
Battery Charger and Maintainer 10 Amp
12-volt deep cycle batteries can lose 1 volt per month when just sitting or if your RV is in storage. This is a solar-powered maintainer, and works great!
Solar Powered Battery Maintainer
Inverters convert 12 volt DC power to 120 Volt AC power. They must be a Pure Sine Wave Inverter, which is best for electronics including Starlink’s router.
Pure Sine Wave 2,000 Watt Inverter
For High Speed Internet, we use Starlink, and Calyx Hotspot (most affordable). Both are truly Unlimited data, and no throttling. Here is a link to Calyx, and you get a free month, and I do too!
Calyx High-Speed HotSpot, choose #2 Sustainer Level
If there isn’t a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) on your RV already, you need to install one! This is what I have, it measures tire pressure and temperature (high temps may indicate a tire out of alignment or bearing going out) of each tire, and notifies you with a screech if either gets too high or too low. These have flow-thru sensors so you can add air easily. Below are for 4 and then 6 tires, but they do have more if needed:
TST 507 Tire Pressure Monitor System 4 Sensors
TST 507 Tire Pressure Monitor System 6 Sensors
This handy gadget helps you level your towable from an app on your phone!
If your power chord connects to your RV straight on, it may put too much weight on the plastic threads (which ruined mine). Get the appropriate 90 degree “dogbone” below to help prevent that:
50 Amp 90 Degree Power Dogbone
30 Amp 90 Degree Power Dogbone
When you’re hooked to shore power, it may be cheaper to run an electric heater in your RV than use your propane…or supplement your propane furnace with electric. Here are the two that work well for us, the oil heater has 3 power settings and makes no sound at all:
Oscillating Heater, Very Quiet.
Tools & Other Products:
An Air Compressor suitable for RV use, that can pump up tires to the high pressure required is a must. This one is the best, and comes with all the attachments and hose length you need to get from the front of your tow vehicle to the spare tire on the back of your RV. I use this to winterize my RV with 25# of air pressure using the attachment set below also: