The Best Holding Tank Treatment?
“What additive is best for my RV holding tank?” is probably the most asked question I get, especially when I’m hydro-jet high-pressure cleaning RV tanks.
Searching Facebook or YouTube will result in about as many tank treatments or advice as there are RVs. recommendations are as varied as the stars in the sky, suggesting store-bought liquids, powders, or packets, and even various homemade recipes.
When asked what to use, I always answer “water”. Seriously, water is your best tank additive, and most RV tank problems are due to not having enough water. When you dump your black tank and close the valve, always fill at least two toilet bowls full of water and flush it down to the tank (2 or 3 gallons) to create a water base. Similarly, for your gray tank, run your sink faucet down the drain for about 30 seconds.
“But then what additives/treatments are best to use?”
Firstly, RV holding tanks are just that, they hold “stuff” for a little while, then flush out. Don’t confuse that with a septic tank found at most rural residences. Those septic tanks take months or years to break down toilet paper, bodily waste, and food waste into a slurry that flows out the leach lines. RV holding tanks shouldn’t hold “stuff” nearly that long. But we do need to know a few Tips From A Tech to understand and maintain the holding tanks, piping, and valves.
Secondly, which additive/treatment is best depends on the answer to this:
How long does “stuff” sit in your holding tank?
If one week or less, then don’t waste your money. Most tank treatments at WalMart or Camping World reduce some odors and do little to break down waste anyway in that short of time. Reading the ingredient labels will surprise you since the majority will list mostly fragrance. Most can cause problems due to chemicals and fillers that get sticky (cause sensor issues) and sink and stick to the bottom of your holding tank and don’t flush out…They’re not needed. However, using nothing can be stinky, so if you want to use something, here is the best and cheapest:
I use a little Pine-Sol and some Calgon Bath Beads. Pine-Sol no longer contains pine oil which can damage your RV plumbing seals similar to using chlorine products, it’s just fragrance and ingredients to break down some of the F.O.G. (Fats, Oils, Grease). Calgon softens the water and makes the tank walls and slide gate valve seals slicker so “stiff” doesn’t stick to them.
If you answer more than a week, then use Just Science Probiotic RV Tank Treatment. This amazing product has no chemicals or fillers, just organics such as probiotics, yeast, and bacteria to help break down “stuff” in the tank and make it a slurry to flow easily and not get sticky nor cake up, and also reduces the mineral build-ups that can coat sensors and stick to the sidewalls.
By the way, never leave “stuff” in your storage tanks when not using your RV. The “stuff” can harden, get moldy, or grow critters you don’t want to know about. Always dump/flush your holding tanks before storing your RV for more than a few weeks. When traveling, always put at least a few gallons of water in your holding tanks to slosh around and help clean. Pouring a bag of ice with some Pine Sol down the back tank prior to traveling is a good idea too if you want.
RECAP:
My suggestion: After dumping your gray or black holding tank, use 2 gallons of water, about 1/2 cup of Pine Sol, and ¼ cup Calgon Bath Pearls or Calgon Bath Beads. For longer holding tank periods, also start with 2 gallons of water and use Just Science Probiotic RV Tank Treatment (per instructions). (Click or touch for an Amazon link)
Additionally, every 2 years or so of RV use, have your tanks professionally high-pressure cleaned with a Hydro-Jet system capable of at least 2,000 psi. More information can be found HERE.
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